Category Archives: Baja Life

Hiking Mt. Solmar in Flip Flops

 

It all started when my dear friend Dori and her daughter, Lily and Lily’s girlfriend, Annabel came from the US to stay in their home nearby us for a week. They wanted to go to Cabo San Lucas and hike to the iconic arch. Dori said they had done this before, so I gladly accepted the invitation to go with them. I have hiked a lot in my life and think it’s fun. Just because I’m 71 doesn’t mean I can’t hike anymore, right? But I wore flip flops? Really? What the heck was I thinking?

I drove us to Lands End in Cabo by the marina and after parking and avoiding several annoying salesmen trying to get us to buy a boat trip, we got to the beach on foot. That’s where this hike was going to start. But it has been quite a few years since Dori had gone to the arch. The pathway she’s sure they took back then is fenced off.

 

No stopping us though, and we decided to follow the path up Mt. Solmar and see if we could drop down onto a trail to the beach where the arch is.

 

Doesn’t look like much of a trail, does it?

 

Lily, Annabel, and me!

This wasn’t a problem for quite a long way, but we realized early on that this wasn’t going to be ending well. The beach is not in the direction we were going, and it got pretty steep without much of a trail. We sent the teen-age girls up alone to see if they could see a trail going down to the beach.

My flip flops made this a tenuous experience. Also, every time I reached for a rock as a hand-hold, there was a little cactus waiting to greet me. Oops. The views from where we were made it worth it though.

 

 

After the girls had gone higher and checked it out, we realized this wasn’t what we wanted to do and we started back down.

I definitely rue the day I didn’t wear my hiking boots or my tennis shoes at the very least. Without support and traction, I was not doing that well. I started to lose my footing at one point and reached out to hold onto a rock, but there was a cactus in that very spot, so in a split second I decided to jump, instead of fall. I landed on some loose rocks, jarring my knees and fell on my butt. Ouch. Not only was I trying to hike in these stupid shoes, I hadn’t had breakfast. It was about 11:30am at this point. The fall made me feel achy and woozy.

I would have kicked myself if that had been possible. Stupid me. At least I brought water along, but it was already half gone.

Cactus blooms delighted us on the trail.

Turned out that we could see a better (level) path after we got down that headed in the direction we wanted. Dori remarked that she should have listened to her intuition in the first place, as it was pretty obvious that going up this rocky mountain wasn’t going to get us to the arch.

Taking this nice path made for a sweet adventure that ended with more splendid views, but we never made it to the arch. One would have to be a mountain goat to get down the rocks to the beach. Or be wearing better footwear. And maybe being a little younger would have helped me. At any rate, we decided to get back to the beach where we started.

The arch is around the corner beyond the rocks. (I think.)

 

Dori, don’t fall!!!

The three of them brought swim suits. I only brought my camera.

Dori enjoying the water.

Others enjoying the water too.

We had the privilege to see lots of jumping rays as our finale.

 

We left the beach to the local children and headed to the restaurant to meet our spouses for lunch.

Maybe I’ve learned my lesson too.

Flip flops do not make good hiking footwear.

 

 

 

 

 

Cactus Dreams

When I was a kid I thought the desert was ugly. Really? What was I thinking? Now I get so excited about how many species of cactus I see here in The Baja.

Cactus dreams are mine.

 

Cactus Sunrise

 

Cactus Sunset

 

The one on the right above is from an agave that puts out this last bit of fun before it dies. We used it for a Christmas tree last year and we like it so much we kept it in front (without the lights). The one on the left is a yucca.

Below are two agave “trees” that are coming out of a couple small agaves.

 

 

 

Speaking of lights, we took them from the agave bloom and put them around our cardons in the front. Pretty cool, huh? Cardon cactus (scientific name: Pachycereus pringlei) are native to northwestern Mexico in the states of Baja California, Baja California Sur. (“Sur” means “South”)  It is the tallest cactus species known, with a record height of 63′ tall. It is similar, but not the same as, the saguaro cactus found in the Sonoran Desert in Arizona.

The ones below are on the side of my house. We have several cardon in our yard. They make great perches for the birds too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lately I have been painting little pictures of cardon. I was inspired by one of my photos to do this one:

 

Here’s the photo I used:

 

The ones below are growing into quite a clump, which is very common around here.

 

The first time we drove down The Baja, seeing the cactus was mesmerizing to us–the shapes, the sizes, colors, how they grow in such a desolate landscape. The varieties of cactus are endless, and I know only a fraction of what’s out there. The next few photos are from Cataviña on our drive on The Baja.

 

 

 

 

 

This last one in Cataviña is my favorite. It looks like a water color to me. Maybe I’ll attempt to paint this one.

Several of the cactus grow into funny shapes. We say they are “morphed.” I have no idea what causes this strange thing to happen to them. Diversity is everywhere. The one directly below is a pitaya that has morphed into this funny shape.

The next ones are morphed cardon.

 

Cactus are like people. Some of them are pricks and the next thing you know they blossom.

 

 

Here are some of my tries at painting these amazing plants.

 

The ones with the orange flowers are called tuna cactus. The ones with yellow blooms are nopales. I’ve had the paddles from them in salad. So yummy. You can eat the fruit too.

 

This gorgeous flowers above are growing on a pitaya, or organ pipe.

 

It always amazes me how cactus can grow in such rocky places.

Above is a cardon standing alone at Balandra Bay in La Paz.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I no longer believe the desert is ugly. It’s full of the most crazy, cool cactus and critters. My life is full of cactus dreams.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whale Watching and More

A trip to Lopez Mateo in Magdalena Bay gave us more to love about the Baja. The experience was exactly what we wanted, with much more than whales to see. Magdalena Bay is on the Pacific side and after a peaceful morning with whales and dolphins, the boat dropped us off we had a short hike on the dunes to get to the ocean.

 

 

 

 

There are a family of coyotes who live on the dunes. There is no source of fresh water, so they rely on dew on the vegetation. I was surprised at how large they are. There must be a lot to eat.

 

We searched for treasures and found some. These are the largest sand dollars I’ve ever seen.

 

 

We made the trip with Carlos and Paula who own and operate the Todos Santos Surf Shop and Explora Baja. We’ve done the whale shark trip with them several times, but this is the first time for Mag Bay. It’s such an up close look at the gray whales. Our oldest son and his wife came from Florida to visit and we treated them to this side trip. It’s about a six hour drive, but Carlos drove and we had the comfort of a big van. The hotel we stayed in served delicious meals. The evening meal was lobster. Oh my! What a treat.

Our daughter-in-law loves to have her photo taken while she jumps for joy. What a delight.

 

Hearing the whales spout, seeing their tales, and being so close to these creatures gave us thrills.

 

 

 

The mangroves are something to see too. Lots of birds thrive here.

 

 

 

 

The sights and sounds of Magdalena Bay will be with us forever. We’ll definitely go again.

 

 

 

 

Dolphins show off!

The sunrise from our hotel room balcony was beautiful.

 

Memories are made of this.

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for not driving on the beach!

 

 

I didn’t make this sign or put it in the public access by my house, but I am thrilled that someone did. Zona de Anidacion means Nesting Zone. But it is more than nesting that makes me so unhappy about people driving on the beach. What about the baby turtles as they hatch? It’s hard enough for them to make it to their ocean home going over all the footprints and beer cans and plastic bottles and other plastic crap that people leave on the beach.

Going over tire tracks is a major hurdle for these precious little ones. I’ve seen them as they fall into the rut and end up on their backs struggling to right themselves. It’s bad enough that some dogs dig up nests, and the birds eat the babies as they attempt to get to the sea and crabs eat the eggs in the nest. At least those last two I mentioned are nature at its finest.

But cars and trucks on the beach? Why? Because it’s Mexico and you can do anything you want and get away with it? No rules? You left your brain at home? You left your manners at home? You don’t care?

 

Yesterday I stopped a fisherman from driving his truck over a bunch of baby turtles. I went screaming and waving my arms in his path yelling, “No! No!” As he got closer I reached down and picked up one of the turtles and held it up for the fisherman to see. He got out of his truck and saw for himself all the turtles…must have been about 40 of them right there in front of him. Had I not stopped him, he would have driven over them in his full sized truck.

To his credit, he got right with it, picking up the babies and putting them closer to the water. Maybe that’s not the right thing to do either, but it’s better than driving all over them. He took photos with his phone and I offered to take his photo with the turtles. His smile with those little ones made my morning. We spent a lot more time watching the waves roll up and over them a few times before they finally made it out to swim. The fisherman never did continue driving, rather turned around and went off the beach.

I can’t help but think that if people who drive all over the beach would see this miracle hatching or females laying eggs, that they would stop taking their vehicles on the beach. Maybe that is too optimistic, but I’ve always been more of an optimist than a pessimist. Lack of knowledge about the impact their driving causes has to be one reason they don’t stop.

 

All those black dots are babies heading to the water.

 

These are the mother turtle tracks from coming up to nest and then going back to the water.

And in case you didn’t see my previous post, here is a mother turtle covering her nest. We came upon her early one morning. What a blessing to see this miracle.

I hope this short video of the babies heading to the water will buffer quickly for you.

I promise it is worth your time.

You miss many wonderful things driving on the beach. Here are some things I’ve come upon during my walks.

 

 

All collected one morning on the beach. Find the seahorse?

Just standing still for awhile to watch the waves, and turning toward the mountains and see the sunrise are two examples.

An eel washed up.

 

But it is more than that. The peaceful feelings, the wonder, or the magic won’t be yours as you roar down the beach in your vehicle.

Sunrise seen today as I walked on the beach.

 

Please don’t drive on the beach. The turtles need your help.

 

Olive Ridley Turtles on “our” Beach

Two days in a row we came upon turtles laying eggs and then going back into the ocean. To say it was a thrill doesn’t quite capture the feeling. Such a blessing to witness this spectacle.

I’ve written extensively about the Olive Ridley turtles in a previous post, but I now can add these photos.

Look closely and you can see the motion of the sand as she covers her nest.

 

There were construction workers who are building houses on the beach. They  came down to view this too with their cell phones out snapping photos. We were all enthralled and excited.

 

 

 

They lay their eggs, cover the nests and go back into the ocean. What a blessing to witness this.

 

 

The bad news is that people drive on our beaches. It is illegal to do so, but it doesn’t stop them. Also, this morning we found four new nests and all of them had been dug up. There were 4 Runner tracks leading to each of them. Disgusting.

Turtles have enough trouble surviving without these creeps digging up the eggs. Ugh.

 

 

 

 

 

To Dance is to be Happy

Los mariachis me hacen bailer

Bailer es ser feliz

La  música tiene un ritmo

Me hace tocar los pies

Bailer es ser feliz

~~~

The mariachis make me dance

To dance is to be happy

The music has a rhythm

It makes me tap my feet

To dance is to be happy

~~~

Don’t they look happy?

Two Weeks after the Storm & The Bravo Market in La Paz

Once our clean up after Tropical Storm Lidia is complete, it’s business as usual. We’re working with Salvador at Baja Paperworks in La Paz to become citizens. After we meet with him we stop at the Bravo Market in La Paz to get Greg some bacon. I snap a few photos. Some better than others, but you get the idea.

Bones for Isabela too!

 

Pollo

 

We love the market with its vibrant colors and the rich smell of raw and cooked food. There are lots of choices when it comes to eating and there a lots of juice bars too. If you’ve never been to Bravo Market (on Bravo St.) you are missing some fun.

 

I wonder how you cook a goat head?

 

Ribs anyone?

 

Pretty as a Picture

 

 

 

On the way home from La Paz I get a photo looking through the truck windshield. Never mind the bugs on the windshield. Just enjoy the clouds and blue sky.

 

Which brings me to 14 September 2017

There has been a tremendous amount of turtle nesting activity on “our” beach in El Gavilan (south of Pedrito). It’s unfortunate that so many people choose to ignore the NO VEHICLES ON THE BEACH law. As if it isn’t hard enough for the little turtles to survive to adulthood. We mark the nests when we come across them on our morning walks. Thanks to the storm we have plenty of sticks with which to mark them!

 

Unfortunately, Lidia brought a lot of debris to the beach. Some of it is organic—tree branches, for example, and cactus. But those arroyos are full of garbage and it washed down too. Plastic is everywhere. A fair amount will be in the Pacific Ocean from this as well. So sad.

I remember how hard we worked to clean our beach after Hurricane Odile. Here we go again.

 

The ocean is still quite dirty. The green color in the water indicates this. These photos are from my walk this afternoon.

 

 

Look closely and see the green water in the photo before it turns blue. Green means it’s “dirty” water.

 

We are busy living their lives again, and tonight we are going to the new brewery in Todos Santos for their yummy fish and chips. Look for my blog post on the brewery soon!

Making Art from Scrap Metal

This is the best recycling I’ve seen. Martin Angel, the proprietor of Artejal Galeria on Carretera 19, KM 64 in Pescadero, BCS, uses his imagination and skill to create fantastic creatures. His bread and butter is making security gates and doors, but his creative side is always looking for something artistic to accomplish. What an amazing talent.

Look closely and see if you can identify the parts and pieces of his sculptures. These mujeres (women) are the traditional  Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) figures that are so popular here in Mexico.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Check out the dragon. He’s so scary looking, but I was mesmerized as I took his photo. He was probably a star in Avatar.

 

 

What do we have here?

You probably need to be a car mechanic to be able to identify a lot of this stuff.

It looks like he’s ready to take off any minute.

 

Martin (pronounced Mar-teen) has done work for friends of ours, Gwen and George. They have his cactus skeletons as part of their gate decor. Very cool.

Here’s a tuna cactus that he made for someone. He is going to finish it with some sealer, but leave it rusted. There are some buzzards perched there too.

 

This is no pink flamingo.

 

Who knew that rebar would make such lovely hair?

 

 

This little mermaid is beautiful. I’m not a mermaid fan necessarily, but I wouldn’t mind bringing her home.

 

These buzzards are so real looking. We have a lot of them in the desert.

 

Baja shores are filled with pelicans too.

 

This is Martin’s nod to another creature that is found here in Baja. (A big reason we moved here).

 

 

Look at those 6-pack abs!!!

 

 

Doesn’t this vaquero have a beautiful face?

 

If you come to El Pescadero, be sure to stop in and see Martin’s creations. If you need security gates or doors or window bars, he can help you with those too. It’s almost hard to believe these creations happen in such a rustic environment by such an unassuming man.

Martin Angel

612-133-0023

artejal2001@yahoo.com.mx

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Part VI: Driving the Baja Again

 

With mixed emotions, we’re off, driving north to our unknown life because cancer has come to call. We’ve driven the Baja many times; we know all the check points, gas stations, which restaurants to avoid, which hotels accept dogs, and the roads are familiar (and dangerous in many places). Our senses are heightened and we are consumed with our own thoughts. What the hell? Cancer? Really? There is this tiny, itsy bitsy idea in my head: maybe it’s not cancer. Maybe it’s okay. I guess it’s my natural state to be a positive thinker, but some would label my thinking nothing more than denial. I wonder what’s going on in Greg’s head?

We’ve haven’t gone very far when Greg starts talking about updating our will. His idea of making plans clearly includes the real possibility that cancer will get its way. Take his life. “No. No. No. I don’t want to talk about this right now.” But I have to acquiesce, because he needs me to focus on what he wants. He is Mr. Practical. And I think somewhere in his normal way of doing things–his modus operandi–he finds relief. That might sound odd, but making some practical plans, doing something over which you have some control, just allows your fear to take a step back. Okay, let’s focus on what we can do.

We also discuss when and how we will tell our three sons, and other family members. So far we have not shared anything with them. Very few people know what we’re dealing with and that is how Greg wants it right now. In order to leave our home for an unspecified time, we request assistance from our neighbors, who generously offer to do whatever we need. Greg takes care of all those plans too. It gives him something to do besides think.

Antonio, our Mexican gardener, will water our plants weekly and do a general clean up once a month. Randy, our dear friend, will maintain our solar batteries, and our close neighbor, Aldo, is in charge of paying Antonio (who works for Aldo too) and keeping tabs on our water needs, ordering a truck of water when the cistern is low. Aldo is also keeping an eye out so we don’t have troubles of the thieving kind. Our alarm system is functioning well, and we are as protected as possible. Greg has even made sure that we have the correct increments of pesos to pay Antonio organized for Aldo so he doesn’t have to go to the bank to change big bills into small ones. This is a kindness on Greg’s part, as there is nothing “normal” about a banking experience here in this part of Mexico. Trust me. It sucks.

Driving the Baja can be a harrowing experience because the roads are so narrow and there are so many huge trucks carrying the goods that keep all of us who live here comfortable, fed, and happy.

 

 

There are many mountains to cross and you go from one side of the peninsula to the other and back again. (See red line on the map above). There are no coffee shops, no signs pointing out your next Starbucks. We need to be alert. Besides, coffee is mandatory for a road trip. So we have a small propane stove and all the fixings for making our own coffee.

Here’s a nice place to stop for coffee.

Day one is a hard day of driving. We take turns, though Greg does the majority of the driving. At our stop in Santa Rosalia for gas we can’t find a hotel with a vacancy that accepts dogs, so we continue on an hour or so where we find a small hotel for the night. We sleep restlessly and are up at 5:00AM. Our goal is to get through the rest of the Baja drive on day two. It’s doable.

 

 

 

Our backs are sore, we are tired and hungry and need a break, but we continue onward to the Tecate/US border crossing after a stop in Ensenada. There’s a Starbucks there too. Coffee is our fuel. California here we come.

We plan to stop in San Diego where our youngest son and his wife live. They  care for my 100 year old mom, making it possible for her to live in her own home. (They are angels.) We called them last night giving them our “news” and it will be good to get some hugs and a quick visit with them, plus some sleep before we continue to Washington and whatever the fates have in store for us.

Oh and by the way:

 

 

 

 

Part III: When Cancer Comes to Call–“I’m Sorry.”

Believing that a trip to Costco in Cabo San Lucas will net us the prescription Greg needs, we head south. In 45 minutes we can be there. Driving to Cabo is more scenic than the trip to La Paz. Quicker too. Plus I can always find something for our larder at Costco, so I welcome the diversion.

You can see the arch from Costco.

Speeding along the highway, Greg is distracted by the ocean waves. Surfers cannot be within sight of the ocean without checking out the surf. This always drives me crazy, but he assures me once more that he’s paying enough attention to his driving task. I’m never fully confident, and ask if he wants me to drive. “No, that’s okay.” I know what he’s thinking: I drive too slowly.

Antibiotics in hand, (whew!) we settle into an almost normal rhythm for the next two weeks while he takes his medicine. After a week, I look inside his mouth and see they are working. The pustules are lessening and the redness is fading. Even though Dr. Angulo had wanted Greg to see another specialist, Greg believes it is more prudent to kill off the bacterial infection first, so we postpone scheduling that appointment.

Back to St. Jude’s for an exam after the series of antibiotics is complete, and the doc there does another swab for a culture to be certain the infection isn’t lingering. It’s well into September now, and the continuing heat and humidity are getting to us. Greg hasn’t been in the water surfing for about a month. This absence from his favorite pastime isn’t helping his attitude.

When the culture comes back with good news, it seems odd that the doctor is hesitant. He wants Greg to see the ear, nose, and throat specialist that comes to St. Jude’s from Cabo. He wants this doctor to examine Greg’s throat for some reason he isn’t sharing with us. It does seem like a good idea though, as Greg has been complaining that it’s getting somewhat uncomfortable to swallow.

As this specialist lives near Todos Santos, we are assured they will call us when the doctor can examine him. A few days later we get the call. “Come in right now. The doctor is here in the clinic.” There is a fluttering in my stomach. I’m not sure why, but something seems “off” to me. We thought they would make an appointment for a future time, but instead we hurry to town to see yet another doctor.

This new doctor has the look of a competent professional with a special lamp for seeing into Greg’s throat. We have come to this appointment armed with all the previous test results and after his initial look into Greg’s mouth, he flips through all the reports. He doesn’t speak English, so there is another doctor with us who does, as well as the clinic administrator and the doctor who wanted Greg to come for this visit. There is much Spanish conversation going on between all these people. We aren’t catching much of it.

The doctor looks back into Greg’s throat with his powerful light; he’s doing some probing. Suddenly, with a puzzled expression, he turns to the others and asks (in Spanish), “Why isn’t anybody talking about the tumor on his tonsil?”

With wide eyes and a curious expression, the administrator asks, “Has anyone said anything about a tumor on your tonsil? There isn’t a mention of it in any of this paperwork you have.”

We look at each other. I feel as if all the blood has drained from my body. Greg has a tumor on his tonsil? What? This explains why he has been having a bit of trouble swallowing. Incredulous, we look back at the four of them.

The tumor is large. Greg will need a lot of tests. There are places they can send him for tests, but not all in one location. They can send us to Cabo, and some places have other appropriate testing apparatus in La Paz. Others may be as far away as Guadalajara and Mexico City. “Do you have medical insurance in the US?”

The answers we give to the doctor’s questions make it clear that Greg should go north for testing and inevitable treatment of some kind. Greg has insurance coverage in the state of Washington. We need to get him on a plane.

As we leave the exam room, the doctor puts his hand on Greg’s shoulder, looks him in the eyes and says, in English, “I’m sorry.”  Neither of us will ever forget those two words and the pitiful expression we saw on his face.